Search any oil alongside the word comedogenic and you will find a confident number. Argan is a zero. Jojoba is a two. Coconut is a four. These numbers get quoted like regulation. They are not.
Understanding where the scale came from makes it far more useful, because it tells you when to trust it and when to ignore it.
Where does the comedogenic scale come from?
The scale traces back to testing done in the 1970s and 1980s, much of it associated with dermatologist James Fulton. Substances were applied to the inside of rabbit ears, a tissue far more reactive than human facial skin, and scored zero to five based on how much follicular plugging appeared.
That method tells you something. It does not tell you how a finished cosmetic behaves on a human face, applied in small amounts, once or twice a day, alongside everything else in a routine.
Is there an official comedogenic rating list?
No. No regulatory body in Canada, the United States, or the EU maintains one. That is why you will find the same oil rated a one on one website and a three on another, with neither citing a source. When you see a chart presented as definitive, it is somebody compiling other people's charts.
Commonly cited ratings for popular oils
With that caveat firmly attached, here are the figures you will most often encounter:
| Oil | Commonly cited rating | Typically described as |
|---|---|---|
| Squalane | 0 to 1 | Very low risk, lightweight |
| Argan | 0 | Low risk, medium weight |
| Rosehip | 1 | Low risk, high linoleic |
| Castor | 1 | Low risk, very thick |
| Jojoba | 2 | Low to moderate, sebum-like |
| Vitamin E | 2 | Moderate, usually used blended |
| Marula | Reported inconsistently | Sources disagree, from low to moderate |
| Batana | No established rating | Traditionally used on hair, not face |
| Coconut | 4 | High risk on facial skin |
Marula is a useful example of the problem. Depending which chart you land on, it is either firmly non-comedogenic or a three. Both claims circulate widely. Neither is sourced.
Is linoleic acid a better predictor?
Many people find it more useful than the rating number. The general observation is that skin prone to congestion often does better with oils higher in linoleic acid, such as rosehip, and can struggle with oils very high in oleic acid. It is a pattern rather than a rule, and plenty of people break it in both directions.
How should you actually test an oil?
Ignore the chart and run the experiment on yourself, because you are the only relevant sample.
Apply the oil to one small area, ideally along the jaw or one side of the forehead, and leave the rest of your face alone. Give it a full two to three weeks. Skin turnover and the congestion cycle both take that long, so a three day trial tells you nothing. Change one thing at a time, or you will not know what caused what.
If you break out, note where and what kind. Small uniform bumps appearing in the treated area are a different signal from one or two spots in your usual trouble zone during your usual week.
What does non-comedogenic on a label mean?
Less than most people assume. The term is not legally defined or certified in Canada or the United States. A brand can use it based on its own assessment. It is a marketing descriptor, not a standard, which is another reason we prefer to tell you exactly what is in the bottle and let you decide.
Every oil we make is a single ingredient with nothing added, so there is nothing hidden in the formula that could be the actual culprit. You can see the full range on our oils page.
If congestion is your main concern, start with jojoba and acne prone skin, and read the hidden irritants piece for the ingredients that cause more trouble than oils ever do.
